Exploring the Murray River by kayak is the perfect way to see Australia’s best known waterway. You can go at your own pace, enjoy the wildlife found in the many lagoons and billabongs and access creeks larger vessels can’t.
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Go with the flow
We had a riverside campsite for our stay in Echuca. After we had set up camp, we relaxed with a drink and watched the water flow past – and it was flowing quickly. Thanks to a recent water release, the river was a couple of metres higher than normal and moving at a good speed.
Encouraged by the swift movement of the water, we decided to do a longer paddle than usual. Our last paddle had been just a couple hours along the Harriet River on Kangaroo Island. The good conditions made us go for over double that.
Echuca Boat and Canoe hire dropped us on the Goulburn River, 5 kilometres from where it enters the Murray. From the Murray, we had a 20 kilometre paddle back to where we collected the kayaks. It was a 5 ½ hour trip all up.
Murray (no kidding, that’s his name), along with his two dogs, drove us to the launch site near Stewarts Bridge road. It’s fair to say that, as we negotiated the scotch thistles, we didn’t push off from an official boat ramp. Still, the bank was low enough for us to get away without any problems.
Goulburn River
The Goulburn River is narrower than the Murray and the 5 kilometres section we did was one of the best parts of the paddle. The Goulburn was also moving at a good pace. We often stopped paddling, let the river do the work and floated along watching the wildlife.
The trees either side of the channel were full of galahs and cockatoos. Their screeching and squawking filled the air as they flew in and out of hollows in the tree trunks. We also saw a few kites perched high in the trees.
At one point we saw one swoop down and try to snatch a small duck from the water. The duck got away and dropped back into the river with a splash. As Nat pointed out, that was literally one very lucky duck.
Murray River Kayak
We reached the junction of the Murray and Goulburn rivers feeling pretty good. We’d drifted as much as we had paddled. It had been a relaxing journey to that point, but that changed as we entered the Murray.
The first thing we noticed was that the water wasn’t moving like it was in the Goulburn. The ‘free ride’ we thought we were going to have seemed to disappear in the wider channel. Someone also turned on a wind machine. We hadn’t noticed a breath of wind on the Goulburn River. But, no sooner had we started down the Murray, a stiff head wind blew up.
The river’s meandering course meant sometimes the wind was at our backs. When it wasn’t, it was hard work. Little waves broke over the front of our kayaks and there were times when it felt like you were paddling on the spot. The wind didn’t spoil the activity, but it did make it more challenging!
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River Life
While we didn’t see as much wildlife along the Murray, the scenery was still lovely. Red gums lined the banks. Many of them seemed to be hanging onto the edges by only a few slender roots. Other trees had lost the fight to stay up and now created wooden arches to paddle beneath.
We passed several campsites on the Victorian side and made a mental note to check them out another time. They were right on the river and looked like the perfect spot to put your feet up and watch the world, or river, go by.
Three or four hours into our paddle we stopped for lunch. There weren’t that many places to come to shore. Between steep banks and private property signs, finding a spot to eat and stretch our legs was tricky. We managed to find a little ‘beach’ and pulled in there.
River Markers
For those who follow in our footsteps, the low bank we slid onto was near river marker 1720. If, like us, you don’t have much to do with the Murray, you might not have heard of river markers.
These large blue and white signs occur every 2 kilometres. The number on the marker represents how far you are from the river mouth. We’d been counting them down from 1728 since we entered the Murray from the Goulburn.
Navigating the river had been straight forward until we came to a T-intersection. After telling one of us off for not having their life jacket done up (no names. But it was Nat), we watched as the river police boat took a left turn. The current was pushing us that way too so that’s we way paddled.
We figured that when we saw the next river marker, it would confirm that we were going in the right direction. When the next marker didn’t appear when we thought it should, we began to panic. While logic said we were going in the right direction, it wasn’t until we spotted our van in our caravan park in Moama that we relaxed.
Echuca
Shortly after that, a river marker appeared. It wasn’t the one we had been looking for. Maybe we had missed it, or perhaps it had been on a tree that had fallen into the river. Either way, it was a huge relief to know we didn’t have to backtrack!
Not long after that we reached Echuca. The sound of paddle steamer horns and churning paddle wheels filled the water. As enjoyable as the natural scenery of the river was, this connection to the history of the river was great to see.
Three paddle steamers came past us in the opposite direction. From the water we could feel their paddle wheels churning through the water and smell the steam from the engines. Their names – PS Alexander Arbuthnot, Emmylou and Canberra had a class to them that the house boats we saw – Cruise and Booze and Gone Troppo – seem to lack.
We paddled under the bridge that connects Echuca and Moama then on to the historic Echuca wharf. We thought it looked impressive when we had walked along it the previous day. It’s even better from the water.
We saw more paddle steamers docked there. You also get a great sense of the wharf’s size and impressive design from the water. You can only image the hustle and bustle of the place back in its heyday. The wharf was a welcome distraction from our increasingly aching backs and butts.
Read More : Try paddling with platypus at Lake Elizabeth
A little tired but lots of fun
Not far past the wharf our finishing line came onto view. The grassy banks of Victoria Park appeared, and we made our way back to where we had first collected our kayaks. We were tired, but seeing even a little stretch of the Murray from the water had been a great experience.
We stayed at Discovery Parks Maiden’s Inn Moama in the middle of school holidays the park is rocking with water parks, pools, rock climbing walls and movies but we still had a nice quiet riverside site to relax. Camp Kitchens, Bathrooms, BBQ were modern and very quiet.
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Oh this looks absolutly beautiful 🙂
Not really the first thing I would do if I visitedm but maybe… we’ve gona rafting in Croatia, so I shouldnt say no 🙂
Hi Ann, Rafting in Croatia would have been amazing. We loved our kayak along the Murray and in the creeks and billabongs in the area. 🙂
I think the highlight of the trip would be those fabulous paddle steamers. I could quite happily spend time exploring the river in one of those .. and a little less strenuous than a canoe.
I love kayaking trips – it reminds me of one we did in Pipiriki in north island New Zealand. Such a great way to travel and experience the essence of a place from the river. Love it.
Oh, it sounds like a spectacular day…so relaxing and fun. Kayaking is such a wonderful way to explore. Thanks for sharing your trek and your tips about how to figure out where you are.
Thanks Nancy – we did enjoy our trip 🙂
This looks exciting. Coming to Perth in 2020 and I should consider a trip here in my itinerary.
Absolutely!!
I love kayaking and my goal for 2020 is to do a kayaking tour something for a few days. It is such a different way to explore a place, right? Next time this is on my list for Australia
I would also love to do a few days and camp along the riverbank, but after 5 hours I’m not sure if I would last! lol
Murray River looks great! We love to kayak wherever we go, so we would definitely love to do this when we Kait Australia soon.
Ah, drifting down the Goulburn river sounds idyllic! For nervous Nelly, that would be me, the Murray sounds a little intimidating especially not being able to find the marker… I would be in a complete panic!
If kayaking is not really your thing, you can have a leisurely ride on one of the historic paddle steamers – also a great way to experience the Murray. 🙂
Such a perfect day of outdoor adventure and relaxing. Kayaking is fun, used to do them in my younger days – perhaps it is something I need to revisit 🙂
We love kayaking when the weather is nice and the water calm. It can be really peaceful and relaxing way to get close to nature. 🙂
This looks like so much fun. Although knowing how hopeless I am on a kayak, I’d probably opt to explore the river in one of those paddle steamers.
We also took a ride on the paddle steamers, much more sedate and great to see the old boats in operation. Great place to visit.
I love kayaking! Your video is so relaxing, I felt like I was right there with you. What a beautiful spot on the river.
We are glad you enjoyed the story Jen. It’s relaxing and exhausting at the same time 🙂
How relaxing. And a good workout at the same time. It looks like so much fun seeing the banks of land from the water.
Paddling along does give you a different perspective of life on the River. 🙂
What a fun and relaxing adventure! I would absolutely love it to be able to go at my own pace.
We loved all the free camping spots along the bank, it would be easy to set up and stay for a week or two!